Marc Jacobs hat weitere Werbefotos seiner Herbst/Winter-Kampagne 2016/17 auf Instagram veröffentlich. „Black can be defined as the visual impression experienced when no visible light reaches the eye. The absence of color“, heißt es in der Bildunterschrift zu dem Bild von Julia Banas, Willy Morsch und Kiki Willems, gestylt als Girl Band aus den Achtzigern.
Bereits die ersten Bilder mit Genesis Breyer P-Orridge und Missy Elliot erschienen wie eine Goth-Romantik, doch nun erhält die Kampagne eine ordentliche Portion derben und noch dunkleren Rock ’n‘ Roll: Jacobs postet Fotos von Marilyn Manson, Courtney Love, Annie Clark aka St. Vincent und Kembra Pfahler, Lead-Sängerin der Glam-Punk-Band mit Kultstatus The Voluptuous Horror of Karen Black.
Unter jedem Bild bietet der Designer einen Einblick in seine persönliche Verbindung zu dem Model. In der Bildunterschrift zu dem Portrait von St. Vincent schreibt er: „I was really taken by comments Annie made in an interview with Rolling Stone Magazine where she described queerness as a transcendence of sexuality and as a ‚banner‘ for being ,other‘.“ Wenig überraschend, dass wir ganz aus dem Häuschen waren, als uns die Instagram-Caption ins Auge fiel. Denn neben Annie Clark ist auch Eliot Sumner, Cover-Model von ME.STYLE Frühjahr/Sommer 2016,„a musician“ (also genderlos) einer neuen Generation.
Marc Jacobs verrät via seines Instagram-Accounts über seine Kampagne für Herbst/Winter 2016/17:
In a continuing series of portraits for our Fall 2016 ad campaign, the individuals in these photographs represent a collective embodiment of love, honesty, integrity, courage, strength, curiosity and inspiration. Together, as one story, this collection is a reminder to question and challenge normal and to continue exploring and pushing boundaries.
Wie viele Musiker in eine Kampagne passen? Wir haben sieben gezählt, die wir ebenso neutral – ergo ohne Zuordnung zu einem Geschlecht – vorstellen möchten:
Genesis Breyer P-Orridge: Performance-Künstler, Musiker und Schriftsteller
In a continuing series of portraits for our Fall 2016 ad campaign, the individuals in these photographs represent a collective embodiment of love, honesty, integrity, courage, strength, curiosity and inspiration. Together, as one story, this collection is a reminder to question and challenge normal and to continue exploring and pushing boundaries. To quote Lana Wachowski, “I am suspicious of everything connected to that word [normal]. It is, to my thinking, a politically correct euphemism for obedience and conformity.” GENESIS P-ORRIDGE, Unconditional Love Through music, poetry and art, Genesis continues to explore, shape shift and define what it means to give love, be loved and live love. For me, Genesis is a sort of come-to-life definition of realness and authenticity and how being lost in an experience or new idea can result in growth and evolution. @pandrogyne Photographed by David Sims and styled by Katie Grand.
Sissy Spacek: Schauspieler und Sänger
SISSY, Gentle Heroine I was thirteen years old when I first saw Sissy Spacek’s hauntingly disturbing portrayal of the pale, fragile, strawberry girl, Carrie White, in the film, Carrie. I was all-consumed and mesmerized by her ability to bring a character to life in such a way that, for me, was very profound. Sissy’s character (that type of girl) is a reoccurring artistic reference in my work. The life she brings to all the characters she has portrayed as an artist is ever expanding, evolving and inspiring. I am so pleased to share this stunning portrait of Sissy by David Sims for our Fall ’16 ad campaign.
A photo posted by Marc Jacobs (@themarcjacobs) on
Missy Elliot: Sänger und Produzent
MISSY, Supa Dupa Fly From the moment I heard, The Rain, back in 1997, I was entranced by the genius rhythms and brilliant rhymes of Missy Elliott. Missy’s music has kept me and my design team happily energized through countless weekdays, weeknights and weekends during those long hours of sketching, fitting, styling and doing looks. In addition to the boundless energy of her music are the visually pulsating and wildly cartoon-like music videos she made in collaboration with the talented and visionary, Hype Williams. I am in continued awe of Missy’s ability to push the boundaries of the style of music both to the eye and to the ear. It was a dream of mine to work with her and I’m happy to share this portrait by David Sims for our Fall ’16 campaign.
Kembra Pfahler: Filmemacher, Performancekünstler, Schauspieler, Rockmusiker
KEMBRA, Femininity While I had been aware of Kembra Pfahler’s unique voice and vision during the East Village scene in the 1980’s, it was when her band, The Voluptuous Horror of Karen Black (that name alone!) released their album, The Anti Naturalist, in 1995 when I found myself completely enamored with and curiously drawn to Kembra. Those curiosities lead me to my first TVHOKB performance. Not knowing what to anticipate, Kembra took the stage (set with giant ladybug-like cutouts) in her bow-festooned raven black, teased-to-there hair, naked-painted-red body dressed in nothing but black panties and dominatrix like stiletto boots rocking out with a magnificently raw and punk energy to songs like Spelling Bee, Gotta Get My Eyes Done and my all time favorite, Honky Tonk Biscuit Queen. Making the best use of what’s available or AVAILABILISM as Kembra refers to it, has always been her approach to performing art. This low-tech performance/concert was the most brilliantly raw, twisted punk-rock-of-a-school-play I have ever witnessed and Kembra, a deconstruction of cliché femininity was rooted in such purity and innocence. Portrayed here as a Fetish High Priestess by David Sims for our Fall 2016 campaign, the intensely stunning and provocative Kembra Pfahler.
A photo posted by Marc Jacobs (@themarcjacobs) on
St. Vincent: Sänger,Songwriter
ANNIE, Other The idea to ask musician Annie Clark (more commonly known by her stage name, St. Vincent) to be a part of our ad campaign had been discussed long before the Fall 2016 season began. It was Katie Grand who originally brought Annie to my attention and suggested we consider extending an invitation to join this campaign. I was really taken by comments Annie made in an interview with Rolling Stone Magazine where she described queerness as a transcendence of sexuality and as a “banner” for being “other.” It was thoughtful, relevant and poignant. There’s a certain maturity that’s inherent in Annie that transcends her age and while her music is a direct reflection of her intellectual curiosities and musical prowess, it was when I had the privilege of meeting Annie in person that I experienced her magnetism. She operates with such genuine grace, poise and sincerity. I am in complete awe of the beauty of this photograph by David Sims for our Fall 2016 ad campaign. It so perfectly captures the inherent contemplativeness of Annie, her humility and mystery.
Marylin Manson: Künstler, Sänger, Schauspieler
MANSON, Brains and Beauty Ironically, I met Marilyn Manson on Halloween in Los Angeles shortly after the release of his album, Antichrist Superstar in 1996. It was after meeting him that I started listening to his music- in large part because I was intrigued by his persona and curious about his perverse and incredible intellect. The Beautiful People and its accompanying music video with all its gorgeous grotesqueries is what sweet dreams are NOT made of… The incredibly powerful and frenetic pace of the video with the attenuated and elongated Manson pulled, disfigured and contorted by means of surgical devices, dental apparatuses and other contraptions is absolutely nightmare inducing and an outrageously captivating attraction of repulsion. For our Fall 2011 fashion show, there was no better song to send the girls marching down our boudoir comme insane-asylum runway than, The Beautiful People. It was the perfectly twisted companion for that collection which played at a volume that nearly shook the walls down. In direct contrast to the outward hideous beauty of Manson’s stage persona is his instinctive, inherent intelligence and understanding of what matters. These days more so than ever I am reminded of Manson’s interview in the documentary film, Bowling for Columbine and his response to a question asking what he would say to the kids and Columbine community in the wake of the tragedy that took place in 1999. His response was, “I wouldn’t say a single word to them. I would listen to what they have to say, and that’s what no one did.” Sometimes knowing when to listen is more important than being heard, and in one sentence Manson left a stronger impression on me than his music ever had previously. Marilyn Manson photographed by David Sims for our Fall 2016 ad campaign.
A photo posted by Marc Jacobs (@themarcjacobs) on
Courtney Love: Sänger, Gitarrist, Songwriter, Schauspieler
COURTNEY, R(evolution) With my abundance of respect for Courtney Love’s musical contributions to grunge/rock culture and her status as this sort of, Grunge Goddess, it was her mesmerizing and extraordinarily moving portrayal of Althea in the film, The People vs Larry Flynt that simultaneously broke my heart and won my love. While I hadn’t yet met Courtney during my time as Creative Director at Perry Ellis, it was her then style that had a great influence on that now infamous “grunge collection” show in 1992. Courtney and I (and a then 2 or 3 year old Frances Bean) first met at dinner with Anna Sui in 1994 at Bar Six in NYC. I remember being quite taken by her deep, thorough knowledge of and voracious appetite for fashion and music. There has always been a genuine allure about Courtney that I continue to admire. The way she’d scream her lyrics from that gash of a red mouth to the hard rocking, wailing sounds of Hole. She was then and remains now, for me, the ultimate divine mess in a dress. Gone but no where near forgotten is the girl-woman Goddess of Grunge in her too small tattered dresses, the little girl barrette in her messy, scattered hair and beaten up brocade 1960’s evening shoes. It’s a long distance from the now iconic kinder-whore Courtney photographed by Juergen Teller for I-D magazine in 1994 to the movie star glamour of the powerfully aloof and infinitely present Courtney, photographed here by David Sims for our Fall ’16 campaign.
Marc Jacobs hat die Angewohnheit, die Menschen zu sich bzw. in die Kampagnen und Shows seiner Labels zu holen, die ihn während seiner Karriere inspiriert und begleitet haben. Erst in seiner Kampagne für Frühjahr/Sommer 206 hat Jacobs mit Beth Ditto, Juliette Lewis, Bette Midler, Eliot Sumner und deren Partnerin Lucie von Alten gearbeitet.